Arrive day or night and you’ll soon see why La Rochelle is perennially popular with visitors – both from overseas and within France itself.
By day, the sea sparkles and the limestone buildings glow in the sunlight. At night, the lighthouses and towers of the old port are illuminated and the streets come to life. No matter the time of day, it’s as pretty as a picture.
Towering grandeur
Park up and explore the Vieux Port area to find some of the finest historic streets in the city. This harbour has been a centre of commerce for centuries, but has also helped protect the city from invaders, with its trio of imposing towers.
The most impressive of the three is the Tour de la Lanterne, standing proud since the 15th century. In addition to a lighthouse, it has also been a prison – you can spy graffiti left by former inmates from centuries past. There are 158 steps to the top, with five floors to stop off and explore on your way up.
The Tour de la Chaine (so-called as the two towers here used to hold a chain between them, to close the harbour to invaders) is from the 14th century, as is the Tour St-Nicolas. The latter has seen duty as a royal house and is a must-see.
Three is the magic number
La Rochelle seems to do things in threes – as well as a trio of towers, it also has three urban beaches. They’re on the small side, true, but they’re close enough to the centre of town to make sunbathing and sightseeing in the same day a very enticing option – and their situations are simply sublime.
Plage du Chef de Baie is the westernmost beach, only 200 metres or so long, and is perfect for summer swimming. Concurrence Beach is shorter but even more central, next to the Old Port.
Minimes Beach is the largest and the prettiest, close to the pine forest and with fine views of the shoreline. Relax here on the soft sand and watch the boats bob in and out of the harbour.
The jewel of the Atlantic
Île de Ré may just be the highlight of the Atlantic coast, and it’s so close to the city that you can glide over the toll bridge and be enjoying all the island has offer within half an hour’s drive.
Once there, you’ll be greeted by traditional whitewashed buildings, most of them adorned with green shutters. This aesthetic authenticity is one side of Île de Ré, best seen in its capital Saint-Martin-de-Ré. The other can be found in the quiet dunes and pine trees peppered across the island.
Start by taking a tour of the historic fortifications, before pulling up a seat at a café in one of the many squares to watch the world go by. Quirky independent shops line the streets, so you can browse for souvenirs or, if you have your sea legs, head for the sailing school. Grab a portside table at a seafood restaurant, watch the sun set – and enjoy flavours and vistas to remember.
Explore the allure of western France and beyond when you hire a car from La Rochelle Airport.