The Aveyron region is a well-kept secret in France, sparsely populated with wild valleys, rocky landscapes and scenic villages throughout. Rodez is the capital, offering a great introduction to the hidden beauty found here.
An outstanding old town
Rodez has a history spanning back to at least the 5th century, though it has most to show from its medieval years. Walk around the Place du Bourg in the old town, where nobility used to reside in the timbered buildings. If you look up you can spot unique features including Renaissance windows and small towers, adding an elegant touch to the olde worlde charm.
Just down the road is Saint Amans’ church. Originally appearing in the 12th century, it was later rebuilt from its original red stones with Baroque flair – and a fountain.
The old town’s centrepiece is Rodez Cathedral, constructed between the 13th and 15th centuries. It looks more like a fortress than a place of worship – and for good reason. It formed part of the city’s defences, which explains why there’s no entrance door in the main façade. The building’s towering size makes it one of the largest cathedrals in the south of France, but it’s the rouge sandstone and Gothic style that really leave catch your eye.
On Place de l’Olmet, you’ll find what is probably one of the most photographed buildings in all of Rodez. Maison d’Armagnac was built by a rich local merchant in the 16th century and is a fine example of well-crafted stonework, pilasters and medallions.
Magnificent museums
Rodez is a cultural hub, home to many modern and historical museums delving into a variety of subjects. In one of the grandest settings, the Renaissance Hôtel de Jouéry, is the Musée Fenaille. The Dame de Sain-Sernin is the gloried showpiece, a statue believed to be 5,000 years old, along with mosaics and tomb sculptures.
Leading the contemporary scene in Rodez is Musée Soulages, which opened in 2014. Hundreds of pieces by local artist Pierre Soulange, from paintings and sculptures to screen prints and photography, are on display within the stylishly-rusted building.
Musée Denys-Puech was established by the local sculptor Denys Puech in 1903. As well as featuring his work, it has paintings by Maurice Bompard and engravings by Eugene Viala, two other artists from the Aveyron region. Plus, its position high in the city offers spectacular views over Rodez.
Venture into the villages
There are many adventures to be had in the hills and countryside of this idyllic region. The village of Estaing is just less than an hour’s drive north, full of Renaissance houses and a castle that overlooks it all, like something out of a fairy tale. The Gothic bridge crossing the River Lot is a UNESCO world heritage site and a wonderful way to enter this magical little village.
Around half an hour west lies Belcastel, where an 11th-century castle dominates the skyline, with a drawbridge leading up to it and a dungeon below. There’s also a medieval bridge crossing the Aveyron river, which makes a great viewpoint over the enchanting, rustic houses.
Arrange car hire in Rodez to explore everything this hidden gem has to offer and the surrounding hills of Aveyron.
