First impressions count – and when you arrive in Palermo you’ll be struck not only by the grand buildings from different architectural traditions, but also by the bustle of life, the buzz on the streets and the alluring curve of the bay. Get lost in the new and old cities here – there’s a surprise around every corner.
The footsteps of invaders
You can get an immediate grasp of Palermo and Sicily’s history as a springboard for invasion at the remarkable Cattedrale di Palermo. Unpicking the development of this church takes you from a Byzantine basilica to a 9th century Mosque and the current form, which started in 1185 when the Normans redeveloped the site.
Later additions have only added to the confusion, but also to its fascination for visitors. Wander inside and out and you’ll see history laid bare.
Other highlights include the Palazzeo dei Nornammi complete with its breathtaking Palatine Chapel. Again, there are 9th century origins here, a mix of Arabic and Norman details and brilliant mosaics. Outside in the sun, make for Piazza Pretoria with its much-photographed Fontana della Vergogna – the Fountain of Shame, so-called because of its nude statues. It originated in Florence but moved here in the late 16th century.
Palermo for the peckish
Italian food culture can sometimes be snobbish and cliquey, with closely-guarded secrets. That’s not the case in Sicily, where the traditions of Italy, combine with the influences from former occupiers to create a democratic food scene. You can witness it at the city’s many markets, where food stalls turn out a vast array of goodies – some familiar Italian staples, others unknown.
While arancini – those tempting balls of fried risotto rice – are well known, there’s no better place to eat them than here. Sfincione, meanwhile, is Sicily’s take on pizza, and considered by many to be the origin of deep pan pizza. Not only is the crust thicker, than Neapolitan pizzas, it’s usually rectangular too and authentically uses sheep’s cheese rather than mozzarella. If you go to a pizzeria in Palermo, you’ll probably find a normal round, thin-crust pizza – sfincione are found in bakeries and at market stands.
Down the coast to Cefalu
The options for day trips are endless with Palermo Airport car hire. There’s the pretty hill town of Monreale, the perfect sand of Mondello Beach and countless hilltop towns and agriturismo.
Cefalu, a short drive east on the coast, is a must, with its beach that stretches for miles and areas of still sea perfect for swimming. Not only that, it boasts a famous 12th century Norman cathedral that rises above the handsome cobbled streets of the town. Walk back down and you’ll find pretty piazza and friendly restaurants with balconies where you can gaze out to sea.
When you hire a car at Palermo Airport, the many enthralling charms of Sicily await you.